Reef break – A surfable wave that’s breaking due to an underwater reef or rock shelf. Shore break/Shorey – A wave that’s breaking right on the shoreline which can be tricky to paddle past and epic to surf if you like spinal injuries The break could be caused by a sandbar a little offshore, or by the beach itself Whitewash – The tumbling water of a broken waveīeach break – Surfable waves that are breaking onto a sandy beach. Shark bait ooh ah ahĬrest/Peak/Lip – The tip of a breaking wave *chefs kiss*įat – Waves that have too much water in them and aren’t tipping over to break properly Heaps offies – Strong offshore wind conditionsĬlose Out – When the entire line of a wave breaks all at once, leaving no face to ride on and giving you a huge the back – The area past the broken waves where surfers usually sit. Expect froth from surfers, less froth from waves Offshore – The wind is blowing towards the ocean, rather than the land, allowing the waves to form a bit more before they break. Expect froth from waves, less froth from surfers Onshore – The wind is blowing towards the beach/land, causing the waves to break quicker and become messier. Glassy – When the surface of the water is smooth, clear, and shiiiiny Be a citizen journalist for FOX 11 and get paid - download the Fresco News App today.A-frame – A wave that breaks left and right at the same time, share it with a mate!īarrel/Tube/Green Room – When a wave breaks to form a perfect hollow cylinder that folds over a surfer, completely surrounding them in water i.e a surfer’s greatest dreamĬhoppy – When the surface of the water is rough and unevenīackwash – The water that rushes back from the shoreline and meets a breaking wave, sometimes launching you skywardįlat – There’s no swell and no waves around. It's like you're in the belly of a monster just getting digested."Ĭopyright 2017 FOX 11 Los Angeles: Download our mobile app for breaking news alerts or to watch FOX 11 News | Follow us on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, and YouTube. So deep in the barrel that you're not making it out, but it is so aggressive and large and chaotic and crazy. What does the term "get pitted" even mean? You can read more about lessons on their website, Facebook and Instagram. If you're interested in taking a surf lesson with Peasley, rates include wetsuit and board rentals. He's actually very intelligent, and a really good coach." "And for them to see how good of a teacher he is, that he's not just this typical, stupid surfer guy that he plays in the video. "It's just cool to see how excited people get," she said. She tells FOX 11 he is not the "dumb surfer" he portrayed on camera that day, but admitted his notoriety helps bring in business. On the other hand, his wife Nicky said she had no idea who he was when they met. "They'll approach me and say, 'Hey, you're that guy! Oh my gosh, I can't believe it.' And they're totally just flabbergasted." While more than a decade passed, he is still recognized frequently. "People were thinking, 'Was he being serious? Was he faking it?' And truth of the matter was, I was seriously faking it," Peasley said, laughing. I mean, that would have just been commonplace." "It couldn't just be your average surfer doing an interview. "I knew that I had to do some type of interview that was going to bring a lot of attention," he said. He remembers the day of the interview and said he turned a character on when our reporter approached him on the beach. Still surfing, Peasley is now a 35-year-old husband and father and has capitalized on his Internet fame with a business appropriately called Get Pitted Surf & Snow. Some 15 years later, we wanted to know what happened to the "surfer dude" who so many people around the world recognize.
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